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The ascent was accomplished
via the South Face Route which was a mixture of rock, glacier and some
steep 60 degree ice. . The climb began with the drive to Jasper and on
to Mount Robson Provincial Park on 2 Sept. and the gruelling march in
which resulted in a bivi at 7200'. The next day was spent moving to an
alpine hut which was to be the base camp at 8000'. A close weather watch
ensued that evening and at 0300 hrs the decision was made to make a
summit attempt. The team moved off and cross under the first major
hazard (sarac falls just above the hut) at approx. 0415 hrs. Then they
climbed through a maze of cliff bands for approx. the next thousand
feet. From here the ice began and the first set back took place, one
team member lost his footing which resulted in a 20m fall of all team
members. Injuries were slight (Sgt Lacentra: laceration to left cheek,
twisted left ankle and some slight bruising right elbow and left knee.
MCpl Schmidt bruised both elbows, MWO Griffiths bruised a hip and both
elbows (one elbow developing severe swelling and restricted movement)
and we retreated to the safety and comfort of the hut. The team worked
at regrouping itself and prepared for another attempt. As always on
large mountains weather was a key concern. As night fell and the cloud
cover descended over the summit concern heightened as to whether another
attempt could be made.
A vigilance on the weather
was held every 2 hrs and at 0300 hrs a break presented itself Sgt
Lacentra and MCpl Schmidt allowed the change in luck to make their
decision for them. At least the sarac's would still be frozen. The rock
would be climbed by headlamp in order to put the team in a good position
for the summit bid. Next came the ice where the team had fallen the day
before. Steps were kicked carefully and axes were plunged deep. As the
team moved to the top of little Robson and across the col to the next
set of ledges named the black ledges, and for good reason. The ledges
were covered with verglass (a thin very slick ice sheet) which makes the
climbing treacherous and the 1000 feet of drop off forced the mind to
stay focused.
The main summit lay ahead
and 2000 feet up. All that was left was to gain the sum the glacier and
descend to a place were we could cross the burgsl'rund (large crevasse
that separates the main glacier from the summit glacier). From there
more ice presented itself and we found ourselves in the most technical
part of the climb. At this point the team had to work there way through
a sarac field and onto ice bridges which allowed age over large
crevasses and onto the summit ridge. At this point the long climb had
started to take its toil, dehydration and the 7 hrs of climbing were
being felt.
The team stepped onto the
summit 12972 feet (3954 m) at 1115 hrs 5 Sept.98 and promptly unveiled
the pipes and let the sweet tune fill the air, to mark the celebration
of their victory at making the first bagpipe assent of the highest peak
in the Canadian Rockies.
After a flurry of
photographs a quick survey of the peaks spread below them as far as the
eye could see and many congratulations the team turned its attention to
the long descent that lay ahead and the changing conditions of the of
the ice bridges they would have to cross. The decent went smoothly; most
of which was down climbed or lowering Systems were used to bypass
technical sections. In the true style of the infantry (in leading the
way) the Highlander team made improvements to the route as they
descended. Cairns were added to mark the way and fixed lines were
recovered and reattached to reduce the risk on the dangerous sections. A
sigh of relief was felt as the team moved past the last hazard (the
large sarac falls, which were releasing pieces of ice and groaning)
under the mid afternoon heat of the sun. A little further and the hut
came into view and they knew they had made it. The climb had taken ~ 3
hrs hut to hut, a good time considering the maintenance that had been
done on the rout and that most people do the route in an average of 16
to is hrs.
Another night was spent
resting at the hut and then the decent to flat ground and civilization
would begin. |