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June 9th was a "low tempo"
day with a half day of planned stops for those who wished to participate
(and those who did not were left to the Ypres area for shopping, relaxing,
or diversions of their choosing) and an afternoon of additional option
stops for the truly hardcore.
First stop was Essex Farms,
where Canadian medical personnel established positions during the Ypres
fighting in 1915, and where John McCrae wrote "In Flanders Fields."
Concrete bunkers - not present during the fighting of 1915, but a later
addition - are still found at the site, as well as a small Commonwealth
military cemetery and British divisional monument. |

Lieutenant Colonel Vernon examines one of the bunkers. Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Monument to the British
49th (West Riding) Division, located at Essex Farm.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Major Kyle Clapperton looks
out over the grave markers at Langemark German War Cemetery. Close to
25,000 German soldiers from the First World War are buried at the site,
about half of them unknown burials, including over 7,900 in a mass grave.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Symbols of remembrance are
now freely left at Langemark by citizens of former "enemy" nations. The
participants of the battlefield tour travelled through four European
nations without border stops, visas, or passport checks, and spent a
common currency in all four - something that would have been unthinkable
in the summer of 1914.
Photo by Michael Dorosh |
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Professor Emil Krieger's
statue of mourning German soldiers was inspired by a contemporary First
World War photograph.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Members of the tour listen
to tour guide Jim Henderson describe how the Canadian Corps advanced
during the Battle of Passchendaele, pointing to the actual terrain over
which the fighting developed.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Tour guide Jim Henderson
points out the German bunker at the heart of the memorial at the Tyne Cot
cemetery, the largest Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery in
existence.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Earl Morris at the site of
the 10th Battalion's famous counter-attack at Kitcheners' Wood. The
memorial marker sits on private property by the side of a rural road, a
farmer's house on the site of the battalion's start line. What would have
been the objective on 22 April 1915 - the oak wood of Bois de Cuisinieres
- lies on the horizon.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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Sergeant Richard Desilets
and Mr. Paul Burke, both former members of the Princess Patricia's
Canadian Light Infantry, pay their respects at the PPCLI memorial at
Frezenberg, where the regiment first went into action and "counted not the
cost" during the 2nd Battle of Ypres.
Photo by Nancy Desilets |
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The afternoon began with a
trip to Poperinghe Military Cemetery to decorate the grave of Lieutenant
Colonel Russell L. Boyle, the commanding officer of the 10th Battalion who
was mortally wounded in their first combat action at Kitcheners' Wood.
Photo by Michael Dorosh |
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Poperinghe is also the site
of a somber display dedicated to executed Commonwealth service personnel
of the First World War. One soldier of the 10th Battalion had been
executed for desertion from the trenches. It is now recognized that
medical diagnosis of psychiatric casualties was in its infancy; the poem
displayed in the courtyard (as shown in the photo at right) recognizes
that perception, diagnosis and treatment of these cases has all changed
dramatically in the years since 1914. Preserved beside the courtyard,
along with a facsimile of the post to which condemned men were led, are
the actual holding cells in which they spent the last night of their
lives.
Photo by Michael Dorosh |
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It was a small group indeed
that headed out for the "low tempo" afternoon, among them a retired
general and a retired colonel. The rest of the participants recharged
their batteries or enjoyed such sights as the Cloth Hall and the Flanders
Fields Museum in Ypres itself. |
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